Maliness, Modernity and Male Clothing

In this chapter the author states “At the centre of both trends- in forward-looking outfitting and scientific tailoring – sat a continued preoccupation with the healthy and beautiful male body”.(Breward) Much like their women counterparts,a tailor designed clothing that made men appear to be more broad chested, leaner, and healthier. But just like the women who cinched their waist and heaved their breast under their chin, men were hiding a secret under their clothing. It wasn’t until the 1890’s when weightlifting provided a true visual of the ideal male. As clothing fashion changed so did the male form that wore the clothing. Men that were skinny or slight of frame were considered weak, ill or even worse…feminine. As the author points out the modernity of clothing became a “…well-proportioned physical frame, with dress cut tightly to suggest muscular form and brightly to accentuate the possession of fashionable knowledge, could stand as a symbol of modernity; and to the wearer at least these attributes could come together to constitute a form of sexual attractiveness. A standard was being set for men not only in London but other western capitals, as to how they must care for themselves in order to fill a suit or a coat and appear healthy and sexy. “A code of Masculinity which stressed athletic vigor alongside moral fibre gave rise to a fashionable manly ‘look’ that was overtly physical in its appeal whether the wearer was dressed for riding, walking, tennis, dancing, or even business.

When Eugene Sandow emerged on to the bodybuilding scene, he brought with him not only his knowledge  of human anatomy and sport but his background in performance. He toured countries displaying his body as art and promoting national health. He encourage the modern man to take pride in his physical appearance and to promote physical education. The Sandow phenomenon allowed modern masculinity to embrace an avant guard  take on the male form for fashionable ideas on the male appearance.